The Mountaineering Training School’s Mountain Guide School is unique in the outdoor industry. The process of learning to be an outdoor leader, instructor, and guide is multifaceted; aspirant guides must be technically competent and experienced in the mountains, but also need to develop and foster a range of skills associated with client management and group leadership.

Outdoor leadership and mountain guide schools today, in institutions ranging from universities to climbing clubs, place a major emphasis on acquiring personal experience and technical skills. The development of group management, risk management, instruction, and outdoor leadership skills is often relegated to a few short lectures. For guides, however, these skills are critical and in many instances are more important than pure technical ability. Like all skills, they must be learned, honed, and perfected over time and with experience.

The Patagonia Mountaineering School Guide Training Program is the first of its kind to provide you with real life opportunities to teach, lead, and work with clients directly, throughout your training.

The program is run in five modules, totaling twenty-one months in length. Upon successful completion of the program, you will be a fully qualified and certified Wilderness Education Association Mountaineering Instructor Guide.

WEA Instructor training involves multiple steps. Initially, you will train as a WEA Outdoor Leader, a basic outdoor certification that qualifies you for internships and entry-level guide positions. Six months later, you will participate in a WEA Instructor course, outlining the skills necessary to become a fully qualified guide. Finally, you will be assessed as an apprentice guide. If your assessment is successful, you will then be a qualified WEA Instructor.

More than just earning a qualification, your guide training program will be complemented by significant amounts of face time with clients and conscious development of leadership and instruction skills. Armed with this well-rounded résumé of skills and real life experience you will be well placed to find employment in this dynamic and rewarding industry.

Lastly, we will also host a series of short seminars dealing with the industry itself, on topics such as resume building, interviewing, and an overview of the international guiding community.

At the end of the school, you will have walked the long path from novice mountaineer to fully qualified guide, and will ready for a life in the mountains.

Course Progression

Module One, the Foundation:You will begin your training as a student, building your personal foundation of outdoor and mountaineering skills, as well as decision-making and judgment skills. This first phase allows you to start your guiding career with a solid understanding of the mountains, learning to thrive in a remote backcountry environment, on many different levels. You will learn the basics of mountaineering, rock, ice, and snow climbing, camping in a variety of environments, navigation, backcountry risk management, and judgment. You will also take your first steps to becoming a certified guide by obtaining a Wilderness Education Association (WEA) Outdoor Leader certification, a wilderness first aid certification, and completing a Leave No Trace Trainer course.

Module Two, Technical Skills: At this point, you will have a strong grasp of the basics of mountaineering, and will be ready to start developing deeper technical and instructional skills. This will happen in concert with your continued maturation as a mountaineer. Shifting away from the snow and ice of the Patagonian Ice Cap, you will spend a six week rotation on rock, practicing traditional, aid, and big wall rock climbing skills. You will learn about placing rock protection, making traditional rock anchors, route finding, leading in technical terrain, and will also learn basic aid climbing and big wall climbing skills needed for multi-day rock climbing expeditions.

Transitioning from rock, you will continue to develop your personal mountaineering and outdoor skills. With your fellow aspirant guides, you will plan and execute a six-week crossing of the southern Patagonian Ice cap, the third largest in the world. Working together, both students and guide instructors, you will select a route that allows a series of challenging climbing and glacier travel objectives, further consolidating your skills. This will be the first expedition where you will be responsible for all facets of the expedition, from planning and preparation, to carrying out the route. Along the way, you will have the opportunity to climb rock, snow, and ice to summit some of the most spectacular peaks in Patagonia.

Module Three, the True Mountaineer: After working with your instructors to complete the ice cap crossing, your personal development will continue as you will and execute an international, six-week climbing expedition, this time with minimal input from your instructors. Possible climbing destinations include Bolivia, Ecuador, New Zealand, Argentina, and North America. Where you go will depend on you and your group’s goals and desires, and will focus on further enhancing your outdoor resume.

During this phase of the course, you will also continue along the course to WEA guiding certification by participating in an instructor training certification course.

Module Four, the Apprentice Guide: The final semesters of your program will see you transition from a competent mountaineer to a solid guide. Initially you will work as an intern guide, and then as a full guide, in a series of progressively more challenging expeditions.

Traveling abroad, you will spend three to four months working as a paid intern at one of our affiliate companies running single and multi-day expeditions. This will allow you to experience the guiding industry from a trip leader and employee perspective. You will work with clients on a daily basis and, over the course of the summer, will gain more and more responsibility. Exceptional students may be trusted to take their own groups out on multi-day trips by the end of the summer, making the first transition to full guide.

Module Five, the Mountain Guide: Following your internship aborad, your training will continue in Patagonia by working as a co-guide on a 42 day mountaineering expedition, co-leading a group of six novice clients into the Patagonian backcountry. You will be responsible for helping to teach and train a group of students of varying levels of experience in an incredibly remote environment.

For your final step in the guide training program, you will work two expeditions as a full lead guide. From beginning to end, you will be responsible for taking a group across the Patagonian Ice Cap, up a remote peak, or rock climbing, training and helping the students to develop their outdoor skills. The final 42 day expedition will serve as your final evaluation for WEA Instructor Certification, and upon successful completion, you will have become a fully certified guide, coming full circle from student to competent instructor and outdoor leader.

Challenge Yourself.

The Patagonia Mountaineering School is a unique and challenging mountaineering expedition. On the remote Patagonian Ice Cap, you will come to learn and understand what it takes to succeed in the mountains, pulling together many strands of knowledge and skills. To plan and execute a mountaineering expedition, a mountaineer needs to be prepared on many different levels.

3:00 AM. The alarm buzzes in your ear, and you roll over, reaching up to the tent ceiling. The alarm stops. You sit up, turn on your headlamp, and pull on your jacket. Your tent mate, snoring only a moment earlier, squints in the light and groggily says, “So, you ready? The mountain’s waiting.” “I’m ready,” you reply. You unzip the tent door; the stars are shining.

The most obvious set of mountaineering skills are the technical ability and knowledge of how to climb and how to manage the inherent risks involved. A mountaineer needs to know how to set a belay, how to rope up to cross a snow covered glaciers, how to move in steep terrain.

4:15 AM. You call “On belay” and walk out of camp and start across the glacier. The mountain is just coming into focus now, the predawn sky starting to glow. You think to yourself “A 42 day mountaineering school on the Patagonian Ice Cap? I must be nuts!” Your family and friends certainly thought so… The snow crunches underfoot, and you change hands with your ice axe.

Underlying the technical mountaineering skills is the ability to make sound decisions in the mountains. Decision making is a skill that takes time and application to develop. Knowing how to set running pro or a fixed belay is important, but equally critical is knowing when to choose either system. Good judgment is a key proficiency to succeeding as a mountaineer.

7:30 AM. You pound a picket into the firm snow, make an anchor, stomp out a platform for yourself, and begin bringing your climbing partner up. Below you can see your tracks from earlier in the morning, out from the protection of camp, across the glacier, to the base of the mountain. The snow and ice steepen above. You smile.

The Patagonia Mountaineering School is designed so that aspiring mountaineers can spend an extended period of time in the mountains. You will have the opportunity to learn and apply varied technical mountaineering skills in an authentic context and with the supervision and support of experienced instructor guides. At the same time, you will work to develop your safety and judgement skills.

10:30 AM. Three pitches of snow and ice have brought you to the summit ridge, just an hour from the top. As you set another belay, you notice that the wind has shifted and picked up. As your rope mate climbs, you huddle deeper inside your belay jacket. “Jeez, it’s freezing up here,” you think to yourself, wishing she’d climb faster.

We take a step-by-step approach of teaching new skills in context, and building on previous knowledge. The day-to-day operation of the mountaineering school always brings up new things to learn, new decisions to make. New skills practiced become second nature. You become a proficient mountaineer.

10:45 AM. After what seems an eternity, your climbing partner pulls over the lip of ice. You scream over the wind, “What do you want to do? Up or Down?” She replies, “This is insane! I’ve never seen wind like this!” “But we’re so close!” “Um…” she dithers. “Ok,” she finally continues, “I’ll go if you go.” You take a moment to think. “Nah, let’s get out of here,” you reply. A wise decision.

An expedition with the Patagonia Mountaineering School is the ideal training ground, the ultimate challenge. You will acquire a depth of experience and breadth of knowledge to power and inspire further exploration and adventure.

4:45 PM. You stumble into camp, exhausted. The descent was difficult. You couldn’t reach the easy gully you’d planned on going down, so you had to rappel each pitch. Once below the hardest section, the descent still wasn’t easy. The mountain was a maelstrom of wind and snow, and the easy snow ramp from the morning felt much steeper now. You set several more rappels. By the time you were off the mountain, the storm was so bad you could barely see your hand in front of your face, much less find your tracks from the morning. Using a map, compass, and GPS, you managed to get back to camp. The storm rages on. And you still need to dig out your tent.

Challenge Yourself.

6:45 PM. “Knock Knock!” your instructor yells as she ducks inside, covered in freshly blown powder. “Nice tropical breeze, eh?” she quips. The tent groans in the wind. You discuss the day, the decisions you made, the techniques used. And what’s for dinner. It’s hard to believe how far you’ve come in 33 days. And there are still 9 to go…

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Custom Expeditions

The Mountaineering Training School offers limitless possibilities for your custom expedition. Our experienced staff are here to help you put together the trip of a lifetime. This form will help us get a good idea of what you’d like to do.

Costs for custom expeditions vary greatly, from less expensive trips with lots of camping to more expensive trips flying in to multiple locations and staying in hotels. We will get back to you with a proposed itinerary and estimate price as soon as possible. On this form we have tried to give you some idea of the relative costs of activities. $ means the activity is relativly less expensive while $$$ means the activity is more expensive.

For some inspiration and to have an idea of what we’ve done in the past and costs, please check out the expeditions below.

To request a custom expedition quote, please fill in our Custom Expedition Request Form >>

Katie and John’s Christmas Adventure

7 days, 7 nights

Some people just have that adventurous spirit that prevents them from, say, soaking up the sun in Hawaii, and instead propels them to far off places at short notice to take on whatever is thrown at them. John and Katie from California, who did a custom trip with us over Christmas, squarely belong in that category.

They wanted a trip that would combine, adventure, excitement, and high challenge, mixed in with a little luxury and some experience of the local culture.

We began our trip with a trip down the Carretera Austral to Puerto Guadal, where we spent the night at the charming Terra Luna Lodge on the shores of Lago General Carrera. The next morning saw us packing gear, fitting boots and then heading off in a Jet Boat across the lake, destined for the Leones Glacier. The ride in over the lake and up the Leones River in the Jet boat, then a zodiac over Lago Leones was a blast.

Our initial plan was to summit Cerro Mocho above Lago Leones and with this in mind we made our second camp just below the peak. We spent a gorgeous Christmas Day learing snow skills, with panoramic views of the Ice Cap, followed by special Christmas Pizza for dinner.

The following day it became clear early on that the weather wasn’t going to give us the break we needed to complete our initial plan. Instead of pushing up higher which would have put us in the teeth of the storm we stayed at our lower camp and had a very restful ‘duff day’. The following day we ventured out in the wind and snow to make a real glacial crossing using the skills we had leant a couple of days ago. We also found a great wall for ice climbing. Next day we descended to Lago Leones with several inches of new snow on the ground and took the zodiac across the lake ready for the jet boat ride back to Terra Luna the following day.

At Terra Luna we left John and Katie to enjoy another night there with the jacuzzi and good food and wine. They spent the next few days driving the Carratera Austral down to Caletal Tortel a small isolated village perched between the Northern and Southern Ice Cap. There they spent a very ecletic New Year with an international cast of characters. Thanks for the adventure!

$1995 per person

Taryn and Karl’s Daughter/Father Holiday

10 days, 9 nights

Taryn brought her father to Patagonia as a very special 40th birthday present. Their time included a 3 day trek around Cerro Castillo (Castle Mountain), a 4 day sea kayaking trip to Laguna San Rafael, and two days ice climbing on the Exploradores Glacier.
“I’m absolutely blown away by the stunning beauty of the place. Thank you The Mountaineering Training School for a wonderful birthday celebration.”
-Karl M.

$2795 per Person

Meet Some of Your Instructors

Please note that instructors vary by course and module.  However, these fine folks have been teaching for us for years, and teach 2-4 courses per year.  You can expect to work with most of them along the way.

Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing Instructors

Merrie Beth (MB) Board

MB, from Golden, BC, Canada, has an incredible depth of experience; she will be one of a handful of women to become a full IFMGA certified Mountain Guide later this year and currently holds ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide certifications.

Her love affair with Patagonia started many years ago on a personal trip to cross the Northern Ice Cap. That expedition was foiled by the weather, but she kept coming back and was rewarded with a perfect traverse this season.  She embodies so many qualities you would want in your instructor: strong, solid technical and teaching skills, and an infectious enthusiasm no matter how tough the going is.

Cecelia Mortenson

Cece, an ACMG certified assistant alpine and rock guide, has guided and climbed on 6 continents, including work as the head field mountaineer for the US Antarctic program.  She has lead expedition glacier traverses for MTS in Alaska and Patagonia, and has climbed extensively in Canada, the USA, and Nepal.

Her passion for the mountains, guiding, and instructing is infectious.  She is an amazing instructor and we’re privileged to count her among our staff.

Jaya Marr

Jaya is the founding Director of the Mountain Training School and is among the most experienced Patagonian guides. She has lead 10 traverses of the Patagonian Ice Cap and counts innumerable peak ascents to her credit along with an unmatched wealth of experience and knowledge about the Northern Ice Cap.

Her inspiration comes from working with students and seeing them progress, learn, and surprise themselves with what they are capable of. “The harsh conditions of the Ice Cap bring out the best in people and allow them to see themselves in a way that never happens in town. I never get tired of that.”

Dennis Haskell

Dennis is originally from New Zealand and began his guiding career on the Fox Glacier. From there he has been guiding and ski patrolling in Canada, Alaska and Patagonia. He is a qualified NOLS mountaineering instructor, while continuing to work through the NZMGA qualification system. Students who have been on an expedition with Dennis invariably rave about his super calm approach to life in the mountains and his natural ability to help students to learn the many technical and leadership skills contained within the expedition.

Benjamin Gorelick

Benjamin is the expedition director for the Mountain Training School and has climbed and guided on 5 continents, including in Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Mongolia, Thailand, New Zealand, the continental USA, and Alaska.  He cut his teeth in the Chugach Mountains of Alaska, and after spending the first years of his career working around the world, he moved to Patagonia in 2005.  To date, he has lead 14 traverses of the Patagonian Ice Cap.

Ben is passionate about instructing, challenging students, and helping to train the next generation of mountain guides.

Rock Climbing Instructors

Alfredo Iglesias Gago

Alfredo is originally from the big city of Madrid, Spain. However, after 15 years of living in the paradise that is the Picos de Europa, that is where is heart is. He trained at the Escuela Espanola de Alta Montana (The Mountaineering School of Spain) and is an AEGM certified Rock Guide.

For the past 3 years he has running his own business, Guiatrek, based in Potes in the heart of the Picos.  He has an intimate knowledge of the many treasures to be found in this little known exceptional climbing area. Working with Alfredo, you can’t help but be inspired by this place and start falling in love with it yourself.

Thomas Exner

Originally from Germany, Thomas Exner is a full IFMGA guide who has been climbing and skiing for as long as he’s been able to stand.  He has guided extensively in Europe, and moved to Canada in 2005 to pursue a PhD in Avalanche Science.

Thomas’ calm demeanor and thorough teaching style make him an equally excellent instructor.

Brian Martens

A native of Boulder, Co, Brian has been addicted to the mountains since before he can remember. He has 15 years of climbing expertise from more than 20 countries on 6 continents.  He has professionally guided in the USA, Peru, and Chile.  And as a long time musical enthusiast, is trying to learn to play every instrument possible. Up next: Bagpipes on El Capitan.

Lyra Pierotti

Lyra has a varied background with climbing and guiding experience in Yosemite Valley, the Sierra Neva, Mexican volcanoes, and Mt Shasta. She is known for her great enthusiasm and her commitment to providing her students with quality instruction and an all-encompassing positive experience.

Ski Instructors

Nancy Pfeiffer

Nancy has been skiing and guiding for, well, a long time.  In addition to her work with MTS, she is the former head of the Alaska Avalanche School, a NOLS instructor, a passionate horse packer, and the head of the ORIGIN institute in Alaska, helping teach guiding skills to Native Alaskans.

Leighan Falley

Leighan is a born and bred Alaskan who is passionate about all things mountain.  She has guided for MTS in Patagonia and Alaska, and also guides on Denali, heli-skiing, and is a lead instructor for the Alaska Avalanche School.

Mike Mariash

Mike is an ACMG qualified assistant Ski Guide who makes his home in Revelstoke, BC.  He has ski guided for 6 years in Canada, Chile, and Argentina.  He is calm and patient, but strives to challenge his students and get everything he can out of them.

Listen to What Past Clients Have to Say about the Mountaineering Training School

“I was blown away, not only by their teaching methods, but by their whole outlook on expedition life… I highly recommend the Patagonia Mountaineering School.”

-Scoob M., 35, England

“The days were challenging, but the rewards were simply amazing. It was great learning so much and putting it into practice. I would definitely recommend the trip to anyone who wants a challenging and incredible experience. ”

-Victoria C., 22, England

“This was one of the best things I’ve ever done. The guides were always professional, patient, and had a great sense of humor. Do it!”

-Alexa V., 31, England

“We did the most amazing things, in the most amazing places… Absolutely fantastic.”

-Ian B., 41, England

“I had the time of my life. It’s worth every bit of energy you put into it. Phenomenal.”

-Evans L., 22, USA

“Everyone came back blown away. We’re privledged to work with the Mountaineering Training School”

-Ed S., Patagonia Director, Global Vision International

“We enjoyed a great range of things, from throwing yourself down a snow slope to practice self arrest to rapelling in a crevasse bathed in blue light. An incredible experience.”

-Pete C., 38, England

“My favorite memory, apart from the glaciers, the mountains, the lakes, and the condors, had to be cooking dinner in the dark, singing Lionel Richie songs. Fantastic. Thanks very much.”

-Dave M., 21, England

“I loved the challenge, both physical and mental. Jaya (the guide) will be my lifelong hero. You must go on this trip!”

-Mel N., 27, England

Frequently Asked Questions

• How much experience do I need?
• How fit do I need to be?
• How hard will the trip be?
• What is your Male/Female ratio?
• Where does the WEA fit into the guiding community at large? What can I do with WEA Certification?
• What is the difference between the course taught in a university and that taught by the Mountaineering Training School?
• What does the course fee cover? How much, in total, will the whole course cost?
• Is there any financial aid available?
• Do we get paid for our work as an intern?
• Do I need insurance?
• Are there any other costs?
• Do I need a visa for Chile? Are any vaccinations required?
• How much money should I bring?

How much experience do I need?

While we don’t expect our incoming trainees to be world class mountaineers, we do expect that you will have spent a reasonable amount of time in the backcountry, doingbackpacking, trekking, and climbing. If you’ve decided to be a mountain guide, you should at least know what it’s like to spend time in the mountains. If you’re not sure, go on a few trips before you sign up.

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How fit do I need to be?

Your level of fitness will have a direct impact on your (and the group’s) happiness.  Our expeditions are incredibly strenuous, among the most difficult on the market. Further, as a guide, you will be expected to be in good shape. That said, you don’t need to be an Olympic athlete.
Our recommendation is to begin a regular exercise program now (if you haven’t already). The more used to exercise you are, the more your body is able to recover, allowing you to enjoy the expedition. What you do isn’t really important. Go run or swim or cycle or do whatever you enjoy doing. If you arrive in good shape (and are mentally prepared to still be a bit sore) you’ll be fine.

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How hard will the trip be?

Hard is a very relative thing.  Absolutely, the course will be hard physically.  We often have long days, lots of elevation gain or loss, all while carrying a heavy backpack.  Some days will be hard mentally, walking over difficult terrain or learning new skills.  Some days will be hard emotionally; maybe you’re just having a bad day or we’re doing something that you find challenging personally.  The good news is that often the days that are hard, for whatever reason, end up being your most memorable moments and certainly your best trip stories.  And they are balanced out by the days when we reach a summit, with the world at your feet.  Those are the magic moments.

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What is your Male/Female ratio?

While this varies from year to year, our expeditions are generally made up of about half women and half men.

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Where does the WEA fit into the guiding community at large? What can I do with WEA Certification?

Guiding and, by default, certification, can encompass a large spectrum of skills and techniques. Internationally, many organizations exist to provide guiding certifications, from entry level wilderness leaders to very experienced technical mountaineering guides, and everything in between.

The Wilderness Education Association (WEA) is a US based certification body; it was originally created by a group of universities to provide qualifications for students coming out of college wilderness leadership programs, and has since grown to encompass a range of skill levels.

They offer the three following certifications:

Wilderness Steward (5 days): This qualification is meant for beginners in the backcountry,
and certifies practcioners in basic skills (navigation, camp craft, cooking). Essentially a
wilderness steward is capable of looking after themselves in the backcountry for up to 7
days at a time.

Wilderness Leader (21 days): This qualification is meant for wilderness trip leaders in non-
technical terrain. It certifies that the wilderness leader is capable of teaching and leading a
group of up to 6 participants for up to 10 days in the backcountry.

Instructor Guide (1 to 2 years + experience): Instructor guides are responsible for training
students in technical and non-technical terrain on extended and/or remote expeditions of 21+ days.

WEA certification is widely recognized in the USA, Canada, and many other countries. A WEA certification allows you to work in the mountain guiding industry, commensurate with your level of certification.

Students on our Mountain Guide School endeavor to earn an Instructor Guide qualification, which allows for great work and adventure opportunities. Put simply, successful graduates will be qualified to work on remote or extended expeditions in technical and non-technical terrain.

Further, if you aspire to more technical guiding, WEA certification is a great first step towards higher certifications.

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What is the difference between the course taught in a university and that taught by the Mountaineering Training School?

Unlike any other course we know of, the Mountain Guide School provides the opportunity to work directly with clients for 9 months.  While some courses may allow you to work as an intern for a few weeks, we provide nearly a year of work with clients.  As such, our guide trainees are much better prepared for their work as a guide.  Further, we work directly with companies in the industry to help you with internship and work placement.

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What does the course fee cover? How much, in total, will the whole course cost?

The total cost for the course is $29,995 USD.  This covers all training, certification fees, park fees, group gear, local transport and support, food and lodging while on the course.  It does not cover insurance, international or domestic flights, food and lodging while on breaks between sections, food and lodging while on your internship, and personal equipment per our gear list.

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Is there any financial aid available?

Unfortunately we cannot offer any financial aid.  There are, however, many scholarships available. The best place to look is with your local climbing club/federation, and with local schools to see what private scholarships are on offer.

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Do we get paid for our work as an intern?

Your international internship arrangement varies from company to company.  Generally internships are unpaid, but you are provided with food and lodging or a food/lodging stipend.  You can expect to break even while on your internship.  The same is true while you are working as an intern with us; we will provide you with food and equipment for the duration of your internship here in Patagonia.

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Do I need insurance?

The course fee does NOT provide medical or travel insurance.  All expedition members are required to have medical insurance that covers field evacuations.  Many medical insurance plans do not cover mountaineering, so be sure to purchase a policy that does.  Your local mountaineering club often provides wonderful insurance at an a reasonable price. Please contact us for more information about insurance policies that will cover you.

It is highly recommended that you purchase travel insurance as well to cover eventualities with gear or trip interruptions.

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Are there any other costs?

While in the field, all your transportation, food and accommodation is paid for. There are breaks during the course, and you are responsible for providing your own food for this period. There will be accomodation available at our basecamp, but many students choose to stay in town. THis is at your expense as well.  Any extras, such as film or souvenirs, are at your own expense.  See our Contract >>page to learn exactly what is and isn’t included in the trip.

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Do I need a visa for Chile?  Are any vaccinations required?

Please contact your local Chilean Embassy or Consulate for information regarding visas and vaccinations.

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How much money should I bring?

Chilean Pesos are often difficult to get while in your home country.  Luckily, both Santiago and Coyhaique have readily available money exchanges (Casas de Cambio) where most major currencies can be exchanged.  There are also ATMs at the Santiago airport, at many banks, and in most supermarkets.  You usually get a better exchange rate with cards than you do at the money exchanges, so you may want to consider bringing a bit of cash from home and cash card to use when you arrive.

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We look forward to speaking with you soon!

-The Mountain Training School Team